Going to try an summarize my journey here as quick (and accurate) as possible.

New home. 27,000 SF lawn. Front and sides covered with about a foot of builder's sand. Rear yard was pasture that I had cleared. Had 4" topsoil (complete with millions of weed seeds apparently) put down over front and sides. I think the topsoil is gone now, though. (Not sure why, but the guy who did the cores for my original soil test pointed out that it was about 1/2" topsoil and mostly sand under that). Anyway, being very new to all this, I was on here earlier this year wondering why my KBG (Midnight, Midnight II over entire 27,000 SF) wasn't growing. Great advice from everyone here....patience (and a ton of Milorganite) has paid off handsomely. With the cooler weather, I can now see the nice thick grass I was hoping for come to life. On top of that, I overseeded the week before last with Bedazzled. Could already see germination after 8-9 days.

Oh yeah.....Wife getting tired of me asking her how the lawn looks. She quiets me down quickly by telling me not to put any of that "stinky" stuff down any more (I told her it was "just cow manure"). She also likes to tell people she thinks I am obsessed. Her proof: "He's even joined an online forum!" SOme day, she'll be glad I did.

Anyway, that's where I am at today. Below are the images of my latest soil report. Suggestions are certainly welcomed, but here are some of the questions I have, having never really tried to interpret one before:

1. Rear Yard - pH 6.1 with buffer pH 6.9. I thought that would be ok, especially with the chart showing my calcium as already on the high side. Why do they want me to add lime? What's the "magic" number?
2. Front Yard has a pH of 8.1 with buffer of 7.5. Why no recommendation to bring that down?
3. I understand OM is low and will be mulching this year. I think my heavy Milorganite apps have helped. It was even lower before.
4. Rear Yard - P is low. Should I add starter fertilzer to raise the P since I recently overseeded? Should I put starter fertilizer on front yard even though P is 'Medium"?
5. What is a good N level? Mine are 2 and 22 ppm, respectively.
6. Any comments on the other elements would be appreciated. I wouldn't even know where to begin to ask.

Thanks.

Todd:

I spent 43 years in traffic in your town one Friday night recently (Tom Petty/CSN). NYC has nothing on you folks when it comes to traffic. I'm surprised that you didn't bring me a beer. So I'm going to get even by punishing your soil test.

Are those two soil tests for dirt in the same galaxy? I'd hate to stand where they meet - lava must come out of the ground.

Let's answer your questions first...

1. Rear Yard - pH 6.1 with buffer pH 6.9. I thought that would be ok, especially with the chart showing my calcium as already on the high side. Why do they want me to add lime? What's the "magic" number?

The "sweet spot" is pH 6.5 to 6.8. pH 6.1 isn't horrible, but Calcitic Lime is the right answer. DO NOT substitute with junk Dolomitic Lime from the big-box store. You may have to check a few garden centers to find Calcitic Lime.

2. Front Yard has a pH of 8.1 with buffer of 7.5. Why no recommendation to bring that down?

Yikes! In Ballston Lake? I had no idea that was possible. I'd love to hear your story on how that happened. Why no recommendation to bring it down? Because there are no reliable ways to do that in a reasonable timeframe.

3. I understand OM is low and will be mulching this year. I think my heavy Milorganite apps have helped. It was even lower before.

Yes. Only 3,500 more Milorganite treatments and you're home free! The 1.8% needs your full attention. Not a leaf ever exits your property. Ever. And anything that stands still for more than 5 seconds should be mulched.

4. Rear Yard - P is low. Should I add starter fertilzer to raise the P since I recently overseeded? Should I put starter fertilizer on front yard even though P is 'Medium"?

The Phosphorus at 8 PPM is not "medium". UMASS's numbers are for a minimally-acceptable lawn. Your's should be in the low twenties.

5. What is a good N level? Mine are 2 and 22 ppm, respectively.

Ignore it. It is unreliable.


About the rest - the area that has a 6.8 CEC has 3.7% OM and the 17.0 CEC has a 1.8% OM??? Go figure. Bottom line? They both need lots more OM, but for different reasons.

"Heavy bag rate" on the Calcitic Lime in the back. Don't even go near the front yard with Lime.

Both lawns need significant P and K. The back yard will keep losing it until the OM reaches levels that you probably see for 2-3 years unless superhuman efforts are undertaken.

Several micronutrients are low or nonexistent. Let me know if you want micronutrient advice.

Moved to Soil Management and Compost forum