I have read on Morph's Blog and on this forum about it but I think I am missing something. Do I have it right that you use 2 to 4 ounces mixed in 3 gallons of water for just 1K sq/ft?? It would seem that the only way to apply it would be with a backpack sprayer and if your yard is of considerable size I would think It would take a lot of time having to fill that up over and over again to get the whole yard. Is there something I am missing or is there another way of applying it or using a different concentration. If this was a dumb question please let me know

Well, I use a backpack, although I just used my EZ Flo to inject it (not quite as effective since it's a 1:100 dilution, but workable).

But yes, those are the amounts. Powerful stuff, this.

Reviving an old thread!!! Last year, I applied some Ferrous Sulfate purchased via eBay with a sprayer. Results were OK, but not outstanding like when I applied Ferromec AC. Perhaps, Ferromec also has Ammonium in it to really give that extra dark kick. So, also having read Morpheus' blog, I too am trying to make sure on the mix amounts. From what I gather, it would be roughly 2 oz of each (dry weight, not volume) dumped into a 3 gallon sprayer full of water. Correct? In that case, if I have 4000 sq ft, then the 5lbs of each product should give me 10 total applications. 5lbs = 80oz / 8 (2oz x 4 thousand) = 10

Ferromec is nitrogen (urea source) and iron (6%). Ferrous ammonium sulfate's a nitrogen source (ammonia), and iron (about 8%). There's less N in the FAS mix than in Ferromec.

With your lawn, identical to mine (Midnight, Moonlight, and Bedazzled), I'd use 4 ounces of ferrous sulfate and 3 ounces of ammonium sulfate per thousand. Dilute in at least a gallon of water and spray over 1,000 square feet. Diluting that in 3 gallons is fine, although 3 gallons of water could, theoretically, dissolve about a pound of ferrous sulfate...

Mind your weather and don't apply if temperatures will exceed 85. I'd actually suggest not applying if temperatures will exceed 80 to completely eliminate any risk of burn.

As far as application goes. Is the stuff much more effective if applied using a backpack type sprayer as opposed to a hose end sprayer? Also, I am using the following product, are we comparing apples to apples or talking about something completely different?

Click here for more information

It's kind of Granny Smith apples to Red Delicious apples. Comparable...but not the same. Still, an iron source is an iron source (if sprayed). Milorganite and Ironite aren't identical, but the iron is comparable.

The iron in ferrous sulfate isn't chelated, so what's available to roots after washing in is limited if pH is high. On the other hand, most chelates aren't all that available at alkaline pH anyway and the ones that are tend to be very expensive and not generally used on lawns.

If it concerns you, combine the BL Soil Conditioner (or just plain old Humic Acid) at the rate of 2 ounces per thousand in there as well. The HA helps chelate the iron...and that's one chelate that IS fairly effective (and cheap) at higher pH. At the cost of being somewhat slow to work.

A backpack sprayer is better, but I've been playing with my Chapin sprayer. With the dial set as high as it'll go (1 quart to 3 gallons, or about 10 ounces per gallon), a dense solution of ferrous sulfate sprays well and is darned near as effective as the backpack. Since I can no longer force my shoulder to work the backpack sprayer, this is a good thing. For that, I mix a pound (or two) of ferrous sulfate in as little water as required to effectively dissolve it completely, then pour it in the jar and go.

l'm guessing that our recent couple days of 96º weather would be a bad time. haha Luckily, my color is great right now anyhow. A couple weeks ago while at Lowes, they had a stack of Scott's Green Max at the lawn and garden checkout. It did have quite a decent amount of iron, so I grabbed a bag. Man, that stuff worked pretty good. My neighbors yards (nice weed free lawns, but a mix of blue, rye, fescue or whatever) are getting pretty yellowed out already from the heat, while mine is nice and dark with the blue highlights.

For the Ammonium Sulfate, will this work Ammonium Sulfate even though it has 24% sulfur?

That's what I use! Ammonium sulfate is 24% sulfur by weight normally.

OK, Thanks Morph!!!!

even though it has 24% sulfur?

You're making the mistake of thinking that Sulfur in Elemental Sulfur behaves the same as Sulfur in Sulfates. It does not. The same is true of table salt (Sodium Chloride). Raw Sodium will kill you, and raw Chlorine will kill you. But Sodium Chloride is yummy on French Fries.

bombri wrote:As far as application goes. Is the stuff much more effective if applied using a backpack type sprayer as opposed to a hose end sprayer? Also, I am using the following product, are we comparing apples to apples or talking about something completely different?

http://greenfeeiron.info/literature/GreenFeeLabel.PDF

Its MUCH more affective for me with a sprayer (of low quality even). It may have to do with particle size of the droplets or something similar, but to me it seems like a big difference in outcome. Its just a time-restraint between the 2, but sprayer is absolutely preferred in regards to color, IMHO.

If I gave you ten lemons and a quart of water, you could make lemonade. If I gave you ten lemons and a fire hose, you would make a mess.

Foliar feeding is about tiny droplets coming in contact with leaves, with the nutrient being reasonably concentrated. Hose-end sprayers supply none of that, and most of the big 1/4" drops are too diluted and wind up on the soil, where they bind up in no time. If you want the results, you've got to spend the time.

+1, although I've had excellent luck with the Gilmour hose-end sprayer so far. The spray pattern is very fine, more of a curtain than individual drops, and the output is low enough to work with iron.

The Chapin's output is too high, and the droplets too large, to be effective as an iron application tool.

Is spraying better? Yes. Can I do it any longer with my torched back and shoulder? No.

I'd love to find a low-dilution mist sprayer for the hose--something that can do a 10-50% solution with misting drops. No such thing exists that I can find, although I can't say I scoured the planet or anything.

Morph, I was wondering what the dilution ratio is for the FAS per gallon of water for 1K sq/ft. I just received my shipment of Ferrous and Ammonium Sulfate. I have a 4 gal backpack sprayer, Ortho and the Chapin hose sprayer. I am trying to figure out how much to use in each of them. I know I have seen it on this forum before but I can't seem to find it. Thanks in advance!!!

The Ortho I've never tried so can't speak to it. If you use it, set to the lowest dilution rate.

On the Chapin, I use setting 3 and move fast--starting with a high-density liquid. I stopped using that in favor of the Gilmour at 10 tbsp per gallon (a 3% solution).

On the solid Chapin setting, also move fast. It taps the stuff faster than you think.

For a backpack sprayer, I usually try to go 2,000 square feet on 4 gallons, so 8 ounces of iron (6 of ammonium sulfate) per tank load. Mix that externally as there's always a little rust in it, and you don't want it to clog your sprayer.

Sorry to keep asking questions but I have a few more, What would be the solution to use in the Chapin or the Gilmour if I decided to purchase one those to use? And I assume the measurements are by weight not volume? I am just looking for a starting point to start mixing the stuff. I guess I am looking for a concentrate in order to apply it by the hose end sprayer since it is faster that way.

Mightyquinn wrote:Sorry to keep asking questions but I have a few more, What would be the solution to use in the Chapin or the Gilmour if I decided to purchase one those to use? And I assume the measurements are by weight not volume? I am just looking for a starting point to start mixing the stuff. I guess I am looking for a concentrate in order to apply it by the hose end sprayer since it is faster that way.

All measurements are by weight, but not that critical. If instead of four you use three or five, no harm done--so even a 25% error isn't an issue. I even tend to wing the ammonium sulfate, so my solution may be under-bound or pretty equal. I try not to go over 0.8 as much ammonium sulfate as iron, but a little extra won't do a lick of harm.

My solution definition is "as concentrated as I can get it." Technically, 1 gallon of water can bind 64 ounces of ferrous sulfate at 50 C. In practice, no way. 24 ounces is about the limit, but I'm working with 12 C water so the solubility is lower.

I bucket mix that since there's always crud on the bottom, and pour it into the sprayer, then apply at the most concentrated solution the sprayer will do.

For the solid setting on the Chapin, just put the solid stuff in the canister and go. Some crud at the bottom doesn't matter. Ferrous sulfate's pretty dense stuff, so you do have to shake the canister occasionally.

I moved this topic from the Organic forum to the Soils forum since it is about the use of chemicals. I figure there are chem oriented people missing out.