Is there anyway to fix something like this yourself?

Not sure how well it works but most big box stores sell asphalt patch. Something likeTHIS.

srm077 wrote:Not sure how well it works but most big box stores sell asphalt patch. Something likeTHIS.

Thanks, I'll look for it next time I'm there. My driveway is now ten years old and fully settled, ideally I'd have it scraped and repaved/leveled, but that is not in the budget for the next year or two. My driveway is really long, I'd be afraid of the cost.

You can patch it, just remember it is a band aid that does not address the real problems. The pictures look like a fracture crack which means the slab has broken from one side of the other falling/settling/heaving.

jglongisland wrote:Is there anyway to fix something like this yourself?

Just like your grass photos, we need more info.
Is the concrete lifting from a tree root? How long is the crack? Where's the closest expansion joint? What do you want from fixing it (ascetically or long term) to look like?

I know it sounds like alot, but...

texasweed wrote:You can patch it, just remember it is a band aid that does not address the real problems. The pictures look like a fracture crack which means the slab has broken from one side of the other falling/settling/heaving.

The asphalt is on top of aggregate that didn't properly settle before everything was paved and this area gets ponding, which is deadly in the winter.

likeasponge wrote:

jglongisland wrote:Is there anyway to fix something like this yourself?

Just like your grass photos, we need more info.
Is the concrete lifting from a tree root? How long is the crack? Where's the closest expansion joint? What do you want from fixing it (ascetically or long term) to look like?

I know it sounds like alot, but...

No tree roots, its all because the driveway settled after it was paved and there is dip in that location where water settles/freezes/thaws, etc. in the winter. I do everything I can to make sure that it doesn't, but sometimes (especially in January) the water doesn't all evaporate before nightfall.

The crack is probably 10-12' long. Right now I'm going for a patch/band-aid. The real solution, I think, is to have it scraped and repaved and leveled properly now that the base has fully settled.

jglongisland wrote:

likeasponge wrote:

jglongisland wrote:Is there anyway to fix something like this yourself?

No tree roots, its all because the driveway settled after it was paved and there is dip in that location where water settles/freezes/thaws, etc. in the winter. I do everything I can to make sure that it doesn't, but sometimes (especially in January) the water doesn't all evaporate before nightfall.

The crack is probably 10-12' long. Right now I'm going for a patch/band-aid. The real solution, I think, is to have it scraped and repaved and leveled properly now that the base has fully settled.

Typical concrete problems, poor foundation and not enough joints! Get some
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R ... ogId=10053
http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Mater ... ogId=10053
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... ogId=10053
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... ogId=10053

Recommendations- Pressure wash the driveway, Take a hammer to bust out all the loose concrete and clean it out well. Use the muratic acid (1/2 gal acid to 5 gal water bucket) and to clean the new hole. Before making the patch mix, pour the recommended amount of water in a bucket to mix the fortifier, proceed to make your batch of concrete mix. Fill in the hole and trowel smooth. Anything less then 1/4" thin will break and chip again.

Cracks, spider cracks and chips all start from not having enough expansion joints. There should be a stress relief joint every 10-12 feet. You can help prevent yours from getting worse by using a concrete blade on your grinder, skill saw, or rent a chainsaw and blade; and put in more relief joints. Follow the current crack you have to the edge of the concrete.
I don't think you need to have it scraped and repaved. Get some quotes from decorative concrete companies, or cut out the bad section completely and pour new concrete.

I have asphalt, not concrete....

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Jg the best thing that I have found is to cut that section out. Not the cracks but the section that is breaking up. Then home depot sells a product called cold patch. It is asphalt but its not hot like when the pros put it down. Put a little in and us a tamp to pound it flat. Add more and tamp down. Build it up until the spot you cut out is flat and even.

They also have a product there that fills the cracks but I have not used it before.

[ Post made via Android ]

simpson wrote:Jg the best thing that I have found is to cut that section out. Not the cracks but the section that is breaking up. Then home depot sells a product called cold patch. It is asphalt but its not hot like when the pros put it down. Put a little in and us a tamp to pound it flat. Add more and tamp down. Build it up until the spot you cut out is flat and even.


[ Post made via Android ]

Exactly! Its easy! Using fortifier w/ concrete will help seal the new to the old so that more water doesn't start the freeze thaw process. You could use asphalt, but then you have a black patch instead of gray

likeasponge wrote:

simpson wrote:Jg the best thing that I have found is to cut that section out. Not the cracks but the section that is breaking up. Then home depot sells a product called cold patch. It is asphalt but its not hot like when the pros put it down. Put a little in and us a tamp to pound it flat. Add more and tamp down. Build it up until the spot you cut out is flat and even.


[ Post made via Android ]

Exactly! Its easy! Using fortifier w/ concrete will help seal the new to the old so that more water doesn't start the freeze thaw process. You could use asphalt, but then you have a black patch instead of gray

But my driveway is already asphalt. I'll look into that stuff.

Bahahahahaha likeasponge is having a blonde moment

[ Post made via Android ]

If you decide to patch it, cut it out into a square or rectangle to a depth of about 2". Then fill it with patch and tamp it till your arms are about to fall off. If you patch it as is, the patch will come out in a matter of weeks, if not sooner. I do a lot of asphalt and concrete patching at work, and when you don't prep it well it is a waste of time. And the is definitely NOT concrete.

SW315 wrote:If you decide to patch it, cut it out into a square or rectangle to a depth of about 2". Then fill it with patch and tamp it till your arms are about to fall off. If you patch it as is, the patch will come out in a matter of weeks, if not sooner. I do a lot of asphalt and concrete patching at work, and when you don't prep it well it is a waste of time. And the is definitely NOT concrete.

Thanks. What is the best way to cut it? I figure I just chop at it with a mallet and heavy screwdriver.

If that is all you got Jon that's fine. I have a blade for saw that I use. Home depot has them for 18 bucks.

[ Post made via Android ]

simpson wrote:If that is all you got Jon that's fine. I have a blade for saw that I use. Home depot has them for 18 bucks.

[ Post made via Android ]

That's way outside my skill set, I think I'll stick with the hammer and chop the stuff out as clean as I can.

jglongisland wrote:

simpson wrote:If that is all you got Jon that's fine. I have a blade for saw that I use. Home depot has them for 18 bucks.

[ Post made via Android ]

That's way outside my skill set, I think I'll stick with the hammer and chop the stuff out as clean as I can.

That should work, you are just trying to give the patch an edge around the perimeter.

Next stupid question, what can I use to tamp it down without buying something new. A big mallet? Or do I need to buy something (and what would it be called).

Cheap and easy would be 2x4 and a hammer.

[ Post made via Android ]