So I just learned about Micro Herds from this forum yesterday. I had never "herd" that term before.

I have a question for all of you fine folks.

I just recently installed Bermuda in my very small front yard. Prior to this, my yard was compacted and mostly clay and pretty much lifeless. I spent quite some time hand turning 333 sq/ft of soil with a spading fork, adding compost from the city of Raleigh, and also some soil conditioner from Lowe's. It's been about 6 weeks since I started this project and 2 weeks ago I finished it. My lawn looks awesome, but I feel it's still "dead" underneath. So, I want to get some activity. From what I've read here, adding molasses to the lawn will help this out, correct? I'm not planning on going 100% organic, at least not this year. I'd like my lawn to get a good start this year, and then maybe I'll consider organic.

My main question, however, is can I also add the molasses to planting beds. My flower and perennial beds were in the same sad state as my lawn, and I ammended them pretty much the same way, with the addition of horse manure in some areas. Can the molasses be used in these areas as well to help establish the herd?

Molasses will feed bacteria, so yes, it will help. Water is most important of all. Do you have any restrictions on water use this summer? If not I would water maybe twice a week about 1/2 inch each time to start. The soil microbes need moisture just like they need food.

Have you read the Organic Lawn Care FAQ in the FAQ section of bestlawn.info? There is a FAQs button at the top of every page. Read that to get an idea of how modern organic lawn care works. The FAQ only talks about corn meal. This year corn meal is very expensive but soybean meal (a better fertilizer) is much less expensive. You get a lot more bang for your buck this year with soybean meal.

I would apply soybean meal at 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet as soon as practical, spray molasses after the soybean meal, and repeat in a month. Heavy doses of organic fertilizer (like soy) is the fastest route to regaining the health of your soil. Then in September come back and tell us if you want to go 100% organic or not.

Next time don't spade the soil. Just work at it from the surface with water and food. The microbes know what to do with it. What soil conditioner did you use?

Any ideas where to get soybean meal? I went to my local Tractor Supply and they didn't have it.

My TS doesn't have it either. Too bad, they're very close.

Most of us get it from grain mills, farmer's co-ops, feed stores, and the like. I can't help you with your local area, but we probably have plenty of NC folks who can.

There is a "Southern States" ag co-op in Raliegh --- 9 miles from you. I know that they can get (if it's not already in stock) SBM for you, since the Agways we have up North are selling Southern States SBM. It can be special-ordered if they don't have it in stock, if you'll wait until the next shipment comes in (generally about a week).

Thanks, I'll check them out.

$15.45 for a 50lb bag at Southern States. Will be picking some up later today.

Thank you!

The SBM has been a great addition to my lawn. The molasses sparks the herds into reproduction of bunny like proportions, and the sbm keeps em well fed.

You might consider searching for the BL soil conditioner thread if you are going to be putting down molasses. Its my #1 goto to change my compacted soil.

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Dchall_San_Antonio wrote:Next time don't spade the soil. Just work at it from the surface with water and food. The microbes know what to do with it. What soil conditioner did you use?

I don't feel I had a choice to not spade as my soil was rock solid and had little, if any, OM and I wanted a lawn this year.

I used the bags labeled as "soil conditioner" from Lowe's. It's basically aged pine fines.

The option was to mulch the top of the soil. Mulch and moisture almost always softens hard soil.

We had almost an inch of rain yesterday over 20 minutes. Today my wife decided to take the advantage of rain-softened soil to reset some landscaping rocks. She said the soil (which is sand) was rock hard and bone dry right under the mulch. We've not watered that area much this year, and we've been having a prolonged drought. Apparently that whole area has become hydrophobic. So I have a new experiment to conduct. Since mulch is involved it would help me with future recommendations. Still, though, I'm going to say that digging is not the solution.