New Guy ... here's my problem ... err I mean lawn
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Re: New Guy ... here's my problem ... err I mean lawn
I do admittedly have a lot left to do to get the lawn ready before I overseed in the fall. I STILL need to get my soil sample sent off to Logan Labs... But so far I have:
Adjusted watering to 1" per week, once a week.
Started a regular feeding of organics every other week (UCGs, Milorganite, and Cottonseed meal)
Raised mower to highest setting
Treated the front yard with Heritage G (had a bad outbreak of what appears to be Brown Patch) and will be following it up with Eagle and yet another round of Heritage G.
So, aside from the obvious (get butt in gear and send sample off to LL), I need to address a growing weed issue. I see I have fairly large issues with chickweed, dallis grass (possibly), spurge, and what looks like ... ground ivy? I see a number have recommended Weed B Gone Max with Crab Grass Control, but can I apply that to my lawn now? Temps in GA (heck most of the southeast) have been near record highs since May with daytimes in the low to mid 90s. I want to kill off everything I dont want and have the yard (or whats left) ready to go around the second week of September for an overseed event. In some areas/sections its going to be like a new seeding. Large sections of dead grass there.
Adjusted watering to 1" per week, once a week.
Started a regular feeding of organics every other week (UCGs, Milorganite, and Cottonseed meal)
Raised mower to highest setting
Treated the front yard with Heritage G (had a bad outbreak of what appears to be Brown Patch) and will be following it up with Eagle and yet another round of Heritage G.
So, aside from the obvious (get butt in gear and send sample off to LL), I need to address a growing weed issue. I see I have fairly large issues with chickweed, dallis grass (possibly), spurge, and what looks like ... ground ivy? I see a number have recommended Weed B Gone Max with Crab Grass Control, but can I apply that to my lawn now? Temps in GA (heck most of the southeast) have been near record highs since May with daytimes in the low to mid 90s. I want to kill off everything I dont want and have the yard (or whats left) ready to go around the second week of September for an overseed event. In some areas/sections its going to be like a new seeding. Large sections of dead grass there.
- crewdawg
- Posts: 148
- Joined: June 2nd, 2011, 5:54 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA
- Grass Type: TTTF
Re: New Guy ... here's my problem ... err I mean lawn
Hey there,
Perhaps not all, but a couple pictures, particulalry the roadside picture is pythium. The fugus often appears AFTER the use of an anti-fungal. It appears becasue it compets with the more common fungis, which get wiped out by retail fungicides.
The tell tale signs are normally missed. It tends to spread in paths about 2 to 3 inches wide, and wkill keep on spreading. The dark green patches and the matting of the grass are tell tale signs. Nut the most obvious will be things that look like small cotton balls on the shafts of grass in the early morning. It strikes on calm hot evenings, particullary dew covered grass, or when conditions are foggy (Stop watering before the sun rises) If you cant see the cotton bnall structures, look closer. The dark green patches are the aftermath of the cottony phase.
Click here for more information (i think)
I suggest you stop watering in the morning, and buy a gallon of PROMOT. It is $80 with 10 bucks shipping. (ALBRIt is the fungas that eats that fungus. Corn meal is used to promote the attraction and growth of the fungus contained on PROMOT. The fungicudes that control pythium sich as metataxyl, Banol, etc, are generally $500 a gallon. Dead grass looks more attractive at that price.
Good luck.
Perhaps not all, but a couple pictures, particulalry the roadside picture is pythium. The fugus often appears AFTER the use of an anti-fungal. It appears becasue it compets with the more common fungis, which get wiped out by retail fungicides.
The tell tale signs are normally missed. It tends to spread in paths about 2 to 3 inches wide, and wkill keep on spreading. The dark green patches and the matting of the grass are tell tale signs. Nut the most obvious will be things that look like small cotton balls on the shafts of grass in the early morning. It strikes on calm hot evenings, particullary dew covered grass, or when conditions are foggy (Stop watering before the sun rises) If you cant see the cotton bnall structures, look closer. The dark green patches are the aftermath of the cottony phase.
Click here for more information (i think)
I suggest you stop watering in the morning, and buy a gallon of PROMOT. It is $80 with 10 bucks shipping. (ALBRIt is the fungas that eats that fungus. Corn meal is used to promote the attraction and growth of the fungus contained on PROMOT. The fungicudes that control pythium sich as metataxyl, Banol, etc, are generally $500 a gallon. Dead grass looks more attractive at that price.
Good luck.
- HOGSWORTH
- Posts: 1
- Joined: July 25th, 2011, 6:38 pm
- Location: NE INDIANA
- Grass Type: KENTUCKY BLUEGRASS
Re: New Guy ... here's my problem ... err I mean lawn
crewdawg wrote:Treated the front yard with Heritage G (had a bad outbreak of what appears to be Brown Patch) and will be following it up with Eagle and yet another round of Heritage G.
crewdawg,
Did the Heritage & Eagle get rid of the fungus?
I've been battling brown patch this year too. I've done 3 apps of Eagle. Today I moved up to Heritage G.
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- Ohio2112
- Posts: 1050
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Re: New Guy ... here's my problem ... err I mean lawn
Its possible? That huge piece of the lawn died off, but it didnt spread anymore after. So I'd go with yes.
But I killed off another piece of the lawn to deal with a weed issue as well.
But I killed off another piece of the lawn to deal with a weed issue as well.
- crewdawg
- Posts: 148
- Joined: June 2nd, 2011, 5:54 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA
- Grass Type: TTTF
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