Like many here, I was beginning to experience fungus issues due to all the rain/lack of sun- so I did a one time application of Mancozeb on a 700 Sq.FT. section of lawn to nip it in the bud. considering the fungicides likely damage to the beneficial fungi, is it worth sprinkling 1 bag of Leafgro compost {$4} over the area to introduce beneficial fungi back into the soil, or leave it alone and let nature repopulate it.

At 4 bucks I would do it. You can also use molasses or any type of grain feed. To help them populate.

[ Post made via Android ]

HanLawn wrote:Like many here, I was beginning to experience fungus issues due to all the rain/lack of sun- so I did a one time application of Mancozeb on a 700 Sq.FT. section of lawn to nip it in the bud. considering the fungicides likely damage to the beneficial fungi, is it worth sprinkling 1 bag of Leafgro compost {$4} over the area to introduce beneficial fungi back into the soil, or leave it alone and let nature repopulate it.

I was thinking the same darn thing. I just put down 2 bags of Heritage G over my 19K to battle (and I think win) a fight against Pythium Blight.

I've never heard of Leafgro Compost, where would I pick something like that up? Is there something more readily available that would do the job?

Any compost would do, although until the after-effects (if any) of your chosen fungicide fade you aren't going to get many fungi back.

Good point.

I looked at the label for Heritage G and nothing was written as far as I can tell about how long it is present in the soil.

We've had about 1.5" of rain since I applied it, so there can't be that much left, can there? How long does something like that usually linger?

There is nothing wrong with being an optimist, but let's be realistic. You wouldn't nuke your hometown and then drop two dogs and a cat into the ruins and expect that everything is cool. Beneficial fungi populations are a intricately-balanced thing, and a bag of compost ain't gonna create a miracle. While you had to do what you did, you did the crime and now you have to do the time.

Tru dat. I'd expect a quick resurgence of decay fungi and, if conditions don't improve, disease fungi. Those are the fastest reproducers with the largest food sources.

The intricate balance is now destroyed. It'll repair itself, but it takes time.

Although, as a side note, the wild stock around Chernobyl are doing very well indeed. Nature has her ways of restoring a balance--even not quite a perfect one--post a disaster and does it faster than you might think.

It'll repair itself, but it takes time.

Like two years. Maybe 18 months if you're intensive.

Although, as a side note, the wild stock around Chernobyl are doing very well indeed.

25 years later. Not what we're looking for, although a blink of an eye in natural time.

Great, you saved me $4. I'll get a cheeseburger instead.

Two years!

I hate Pythium!!!!!

You're right, I had to do it. It had been lingering on for well over a month causing too much damage to ignore, and 1 treatment of Heritage did the job. I'll apply Milo, Milk, and use biological fungicides in the future to help prevent this from happening again. I'm even going to dethatch in a few weeks to help with the drainage.

If it makes you feel ANY better, I'll probably always have a problem with beneficial fungi (or a lack thereof). With a TTTF lawn in Atlanta,GA, Brown Patch is always a threat. I imagine I'll be putting down some Heritage and Eagle regularly or at least as a preventative at the start of Spring next year.

crewdawg wrote
If it makes you feel ANY better, I'll probably always have a problem with beneficial fungi (or a lack thereof). With a TTTF lawn in Atlanta,GA, Brown Patch is always a threat. I imagine I'll be putting down some Heritage and Eagle regularly or at least as a preventative at the start of Spring next year.

In NC with TTTF as well, I also will be putting down some fungicide as a preventative. So what is the impact to my lawn and lawn maintenance given that I try to only use organics (e.g. grains, milorganite) with the exception of mixing in some synthetics in the fall.

You guys can do what you want, but implying that chemical fungicides are "necessary" forever ain't cutting it in my experience. If you don't want to do a proactive regimen, fine --- but Brown Patch can be controlled by a balanced soil biology as well as any other fungus can. It ain't special.

andy10917 wrote:You guys can do what you want, but implying that chemical fungicides are "necessary" forever ain't cutting it in my experience. If you don't want to do a proactive regimen, fine --- but Brown Patch can be controlled by a balanced soil biology as well as any other fungus can. It ain't special.

I totally agree. Even though my soil isn't there yet, and apparently won't be for a while, I was well on my way this year. This is the first fall where I haven't had an out break of Rust. I realize Rust isn't a big deal usually, however, I find it hard to believe that this is the first season that I was actively trying to promote beneficial fungi and I didn't get Rust.

Of course I got something much, much worse in Pythium.......but that was most likely due to the density of the grass combined with just how high and wet the lawn was all summer. Once I got it, I couldn't get rid of it until I put down the Heritage.

Next year I will apply Milo. several times, raw milk, and be preventative by using biological fungicides only.