In a couple of hours, it will be February.

Cough up your 2012 Lawn Plan - with a bit of detail. No wish lists.

Soil test in March DONE,apply anything needed based on results and recommendations given here.

Topdress with Leafgro compost 1 c.y.per K DONE/apply Dimension mid -end of March based on temps DONE.

Fertilize using Scotts Organic late April/early May along with needed micronutrients

Cut and irrigate as needed throughout the season

Second app. Dimension in June

starting in August, monthly drops of organic fert {Scotts Organic/Milorganite/ or Ringers thru October

Drop fall pre-emergent in Sept to continue barrier for fall germinating weeds {poa}

Possible second Leafgro topdressing app. in September.

Winterize with synthetic fert app late Nov/early Dec depending on temps.

My spring plan tentatively looks something like this. I don't have Summer or Fall worked out in as much detail yet and it will depend greatly on what is happening with the lawn. As usual, all plans are subject to change based on natural disasters, acts of god, etc.

Feb:
- Soil test toward end of month (coming up fast - )
Mar:
- Barricade at split rate likely some time in early/mid Mar
- Tenacity for Poa incursions from last fall's reno - hopefully minimal
- Compost top dress at 1/2 yard/k toward end of month
April/May:
- Soybean/Scott's organic monthly
- Alfalfa monthly
- Corn meal 1-2x/month
- Serenade 1-2x/month depending on conditions
- Phosphite 1-2x/month (alternating with Serenade) depending on conditions
- Soil conditioner twice monthly
- Iron applications (unknown what at this point)
- Spray iron as needed
- Nematodes likely late April
June/July
- Watch for issues, treat as needed
- Continue organic fertilizing at reduced rates
- Continue Phosphite and Serenade
Aug/Sept/Oct
- Start Milorganite twice monthly based on weather
- Barricade second application
- Possible fall compost top-dressing at 1/2 yard/acre
- Switch to heavy Milorganite for Iron/Fertilizing

Two things make my plan odd:

- Mild winter in NC throws some conventions to the wind
- I rent until next fall, so my only goal is reduced weeds and increased grass at minimal expense - no trophies. Oh, and I want to learn by doing on someone else's lawn.

Plan:
01/27 - Full spray of Tenacity
02/18 - Full spray of Tenacity
02/19 - Heavy seeding (80% TTTF/20% KGB in sun, fine fescue in shade), fertilize (now, because lawn has never gone to sleep).
04/01 - Spot spray Tenacity and RU
06/15 - Fertilize, full spray Tenacity
08/07 - Spot spray Tenacity and RU, maybe pre-emergent depending on lease extension

Monthly milorganite

Organic fertilizer apps

Humates and kelp

Soil conditioner

Complete macro soil corrections I could not finish late last year

Renovate front yard (renovate back yard next year)

Import leaves in fall for mulching.

Front Yard:

Apply organics around March/April and apply it twice in the Spring.
Apply a shot of synthetic fertilizer in May.
Apply soil conditioner in troubled spots that I saw last year.
Apply iron applications in fall.
Apply 3 full shots of organic fertilizer in the fall.
Apply 2 applications of synthetic fertilizer as needed but definitely as a winterizer.

Back Yard:

Soil test and refine as needed.
Fall renovation with the same blend as the front (Galaxy with Jump Start, Prosperity, and Brillant)

March: Soil tests, both lawn and garden

That will set the tone for the rest of the year.

But other than that, plenty of iron and plenty of organics.

Plan? You mean I'm supposed to know what I'm doing before I do it?

Water properly and cut the grass will be major.

February 2012
Buy a new lawnmower – (finally)

Starting around February 15th, 2012 and continuing thru September 2012
Spray Bestlawn soil conditioner monthly
Spray iron monthly
Spray kelp monthly

Every two weeks one of the following:
Cottonseed meal
Soybean meal
Coffee grounds
Alfalfa meal
Corn meal or cracked corn

March 2012
Over seed a few areas
Lilly Miller Ultragreen Lawn Food

April 2012
Apply Thrive (brand of mycorrhizal fungi)


The plan is not complete. I had a big problem with rust last year. I hope I have no issues with fungus this year. I had a grub problem last year also and I am not sure what I will do for them this year yet. I have a rodent problem (they love oranges) and they have brought fleas . That is another problem I am not sure what to do.

We still have not renovated the front lawn. It is pretty much an eyesore and a mess right now. We will kill it soon and seed in September 2012. We will do soil tests for the front and back in late summer.

July: water once
August: water once

Now until spring stock up on supplies, fertilizer, seed, RU ect. No spring pre-M this year, will wait until August on last falls renos for that and use the Dimension/fert that is on hand that I got for cheap.

Hit the weeds in last years renovated areas by early June with a generic (K-Mart) WBG product with triclopyr added for the Oxalis. Reno south side with KBG (approx 1100sf) late May as I can get away with that up here... I think. Will hold off on the experimental Chewings fescue seeding of the planned low maint area until fall with first RU app mid July or so and last app day before seeding. Strictly slow release N fert this year for the renos. No more 12-12-12 or 13-13-13 on renos for me except for maybe the first app which will be imcorporated in the soil. Having to spoon feed that stuff on new grass is a pain and I got better things to do.

edited to add will apply soil conditioners/kelp help for the first time this year.

McGeary Organics Fert. (and likely some alfalfa and soy sprinkled in here and there). Dates approx ...

3/15/12 8-1-1@5#/k and 5-3-4@10#/k (Tupersan due to dormant seeding)
4/1/12 8-1-1@5#/k and 5-3-4@10#/k (Tenacity) (GrubX?)
5/1/12 6-0-4@10#/k (WBG if needed)
6/1/12 6-0-4@10#/k
7/1/12 6-0-4@10#/k
8/1/12 6-0-4@10#/k (Tenacity)
9/1/12 8-1-1@10#/k (Tenacity)
10/1/12 8-1-1@10#/k
11/1/12 8-1-1@10#/k (Prodiamine, unless I need more seeding)
11/15/12 Urea@1#/k every two weeks (or so)

Iron and BL Soil/Kelp Help sprayed as needed throughout.

Let Kitty outside much more often. (Squirrels digging, Rabbits eating).

Soil test in mid February. Then in March do whatever the experts in the other thread advise based on soil test results.

Probably something like... Lime, Fertilize, get some good seed on the ground and probably straw on top of it, and commence with some watering. Then probably do a Fall treatment.

soil test is in

feb mir i cal on area with low Ca
dimension
mar cc 30lbs/k tenacity and soil con as weather allows. sawdust at 10 lbs k starts

april alfalfa early. late april Mo/ sbm starts. 1000lbs of mo and 500lbs sbm are the
targets. dropped april through fall. 0-0-50 50lbs in 6 separate (A M J S O N)apps atarts mid april. boron tap as well

may second shot of dimension continue with spillover from other month
milk molasses here as well as on garden. decide whether to reno.

and then comes summer which could change everything

Log everything.

Here is my basic plan... all subject to change based on conditions on the ground

March: soil test
Mid/Late March- April: apply Guardrail, apply Tenacity, cracked corn/grains, horse bed pellets
May: apply amendments based on soil test, use Serenade/Phosphites/Employ H&T, cracked corn, horse bed pellets, apply Bay State/Milo mid-late May. Use proper weed control method(s).
June: apply amendments based on soil test, use Serenade/Phosphites/Employ H&T, cracked corn, horse bed pellets, use proper weed control method(s).
July: use Serenade/Phosphites/Employ H&T, cracked corn, horse bed pellets
August: use Serenade/Phosphites/Employ H&T, cracked corn, horse bed pellets, apply Guardrail (mid-late)
September: apply Tenacity, apply amendments based on soil test, cracked corn/grains, horse bed pellets, apply Bay State/Milo
October: apply amendments based on soil test, cracked corn/grains, apply Bay State/Milo, mulch leaves
November: mulch leaves, apply Bay State and/or synthetic winterizer depending on weather

This year I have two separate TTTF lawns areas. One “old” area is going on the second year and the “new” being a fall 2011 reno. The new lawn will need more focus on weeds and soil improvement. I plan to apply some compost this spring on this area to help with the soil.

I am going to change my overall approach this year with a focus on minimizing brown patch. I am backing off of the monthly milorganite during the spring and summer and use it just in a late spring app and then in the fall. I am going to rely mostly on grains (cracked corn, alfalfa pellets some SBM) during the spring and summer. I applied an early Jan. winterizer to both areas so I am hoping it helps with the spring green up. I will apply liquid soil conditioner on a regular basis.

For brown patch I am going to take the advice here (specifically Andy’s) and start the process of breaking this vicious brown patch cycle without relying on fungicides by using Serenade and Phosphites appropriately along with correct watering, maintenance and backing off the N in the summer.

And finally, I plan to learn and change any of this based on good advice I receive here.

Pray for rain.

Added "onetime" herbicide to my post emergent control. Its Drive XLR8 with MCPP-P and dicamba. Its not tenacity but has its perks on grassy and broadleaf weeds. Good results so far.

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