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Weed Control: The "Triangle Approach" |
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Written by andy10917
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Saturday, 20 August 2011 13:59 |
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Have you ever determined that you're going to clean the basement, garage or barn and just become frozen in place because you can't determine where you should start on the massive job? Did you ever just say to yourself "forget it!" and go do something else instead?
Well, the same thing happens when you decide to face down that weedy mess that you hesitate to call a Lawn. You know that it will take several different weedkillers, but you don't know which ones and in what order, or when they should be repeated to finish the job well.
It's very possible to turn around a yard that is very weedy, but it takes time and patience. If you're looking at tons of different weeds and not just a few, the Triangle Approach is for you. Let's set some background...
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Last Updated on Sunday, 21 August 2011 09:06 |
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Dandelions and Broadleafs |
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Written by Bill Hill
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Tuesday, 24 March 2009 14:34 |
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Dandelions are prolific indicators of the arrival of Spring, and you want them Dead. First – and very important – understand the difference between selective herbicide (weed killer) and non-selective herbicide (grass, weed and everything else growing killer) To kill weeds and not the grass you need selective herbicide formulated to TARGET THE WEEDS you want to kill, but NOT KILL YOUR GRASS.
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Last Updated on Monday, 04 May 2009 07:10 |
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Written by andy10917
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Monday, 06 June 2011 21:30 |
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Exchange Capacities and Base Saturations
This is the second in a series of articles related to understanding the metrics you get from laboratory soil test results. If you haven’t read the “Soil Management Part 1” article, it would be a good idea to do that first before tackling the material in this article.
In that article, I covered the major nutrients, secondary nutrients and micronutrients. Just to reinforce the material, there is no relationship between whether a nutrient is major or secondary and its importance – it is mostly the quantity of it that is needed that determines its typing.
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Last Updated on Wednesday, 15 June 2011 19:49 |
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Written by JGLONGISLAND
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Saturday, 03 September 2011 19:16 |
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One of the fundamental problems with KBG is how long it takes for the seeds to germinate. While some of the seeds, under ideal conditions, can germinate in 5 to 8 days, 14 to 21 is more common. As such, it is very difficult to overseed bare areas in an existing lawn as the irrigation requirements for germinating seeds are the opposite of existing grass (deep and infrequent vs. light and often). An additional problem is that you can’t use a pre-emergent on existing turf if you want to seed into it.
Planting pots of sod is a great solution for creating patches of existing sod that you can plant into your lawn to repair damaged areas or those that had poor germination at the time of seeding. If you are renovating, having 20 or 30 six inch KBG pots is a great insurance policy for the inevitable wash-out or animal damage.
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Last Updated on Sunday, 04 September 2011 08:37 |
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Written by Bill Hill
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Saturday, 07 July 2007 04:54 |
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Spring is approaching, snow and ice are melting. This is a good time to start thinking about spring lawn cleanup. In order to look its best, your lawn may need a little TLC. By performing certain lawn care tasks in the spring, your grass will have a great start at becoming a beautiful summer lawn. The following steps are recommended for a thorough spring clean up. |
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Last Updated on Saturday, 28 March 2009 19:35 |
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