Emergency Tree Repair

Barley · by **Barley** » November 1st, 2011, 7:56 pm

While mowing the lawn this evening I noticed the trunk of my 3-year old Honeycrisp Apple Tree was damaged. The East and West sides of the trunk were either gnawed or scratched right through the bark, exposing the "flesh". My wife thinks a deer may have done this. Anyone ever seen something like this before? The damage starts about 6 inches up from the ground, and extends for about a foot upwards. The trunk is probably 1.5 - 2 inches in diameter.

Is the tree salvageable? I sure hope so. I'm expecting to get fruit for the first time next year. Is there anything I can do right now to help the tree before winter sets in? We've had some nighttime frost already, but this week has been pretty mild. I'm in Wisconsin so our winters get pretty cold. Help!

Michael Wise · by **Michael Wise** » November 1st, 2011, 8:34 pm

I assume there are little bark shavings at the base of the tree?

That, my friend, I'm almost positive is a buck rub. I don't know if you hunt or not, but that is from an adult male whitetail rubbing it's antlers and glands on it's forehead on the tree. It is getting close to rut(mating season), and he is marking for other passing deer.

Doesn't help your situation, but at least an ID.

I have never seen a tree that size that was damaged permanently by rubbing. Just scarred.

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MorpheusPA · by **MorpheusPA** » November 1st, 2011, 8:50 pm

If the damage will kill the tree, what's done is already done. If not, it won't matter. :-)

Most of the things you can do will only make the issue worse, so ignoring it is best and wait and see what happens.

While some places might recommend a sealant, that's actually a bad idea. It seals the bacteria right onto the trunk and gives them a nice moist environment permanently.

Barley · by **Barley** » November 1st, 2011, 9:15 pm

Ok, so I won't do anything reactive. Assuming the tree pulls through (and I have 5 other apple trees and 3 pear trees), how do you feel about 3" or 4" corrugated black drainage pipe placed around the trunks to prevent future buck rubs? Would the pipe do more harm than good (e.g., trap in moisture, block the sun, etc.)?

simpson · by **simpson** » November 1st, 2011, 11:07 pm

As long as the wrap is not touching the tree then your fine. You don't want the tree to grow into or around the plastic pipe

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Michael Wise · by **Michael Wise** » November 1st, 2011, 11:18 pm

And this is something you'd only have to do from October thru December, more than likely.

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bpgreen · by **bpgreen** » November 2nd, 2011, 12:01 am

As long as the bark isn't off all the way around the tree, it will heal. Technically, it's not the bark, but a thin layer just inside the bark, but usually, if the bark is gone, so is that thin layer.

Barley · by **Barley** » November 2nd, 2011, 10:54 am

Upon closer inspection, unfortunately, there is no uninterrupted path of bark on the trunk. There is a thin sliver (maybe 1/4" wide) that almost makes it the whole way, but then there is a 1/2" gap at the end of the run.

I've read up on bridge grafting, but it seems my tree may not be mature enough for this. For younger trees, I read that I should cut the trunk right below the damage, and new growth will emerge. I assume I would do either in the Spring?

What do you guys think? Should I cut my losses and plant a new tree in the Spring, or atempt a bridge graft or a cut it below the damage and hope it regrows? My main goal is to end up with a healthy tree that will produce apples ASAP. If that means a new tree and 4 more years, I guess that's what I'll have to do.

Thanks for your input!

Michael Wise · by **Michael Wise** » November 2nd, 2011, 11:08 am

I would wait it out. I see hundreds of trees(mainly oak) every year with buck rubs on them, and they all grow normally. Even the ones revisited by bucks year after year after year.

Granted, this is not apple trees I'm seeing. And I know more about buck rubs than I do trees. :rotfl:

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bpgreen · by **bpgreen** » November 2nd, 2011, 12:25 pm

It's possible that even though the bark is stripped, the thin layer beneath the bark is still intact. It will be pretty obvious once spring comes. If it gets any leaves, it means that there is enough living so that it will recover. If it's dead above the rubbed spot, you can try cutting it just below that spot and see if it will send up some branches. If it does, select the strongest one and cut the rest. Train the strongest one to grow straight up and it will become the trunk.

If you get anything coming up from the roots, kill those because most trees are grafted onto root stock of inferior trees and you might not like the tree that comes up from the root.

Barley · by **Barley** » November 2nd, 2011, 12:52 pm

I will wait it out and see what happens in the spring. Should I fertilize right now or let the tree go to sleep for the winter. Should I fertilize and water heavily next year?

bpgreen · by **bpgreen** » November 2nd, 2011, 3:08 pm

I would not do anything now, but I'd probably water more next year. I'm not sure about fertilizer needs next year.

John_in_SC · by **John_in_SC** » November 2nd, 2011, 6:19 pm

You could perhaps TEMPORARILY put up a piece of drainage pipe around the trunk to prevent further damage....

Don't leave it on the tree - as it makes a perfect home for tree eating bugs....

I also vote for leaving well enough alone and not apply any sealers or other curatives...

glenforest · by **glenforest** » November 2nd, 2011, 7:35 pm

I have a sourwood tree that had a buck rub about like that, and it recovered just fine. I would hold off and see how yours is doing in the spring.

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