I'm sure we've all had machinery or car parts start to rust.

Has anyone used POR-15 or Fluid Film?



I've used rust-coverting spray but it doesn't seem to hold for very long. I have a Honda snowthrower that has some bad rust and some bad rust on one of my cars as well.

In my experience, the trick to getting rid of rust is making sure you have removed all of the rust before covering with paint. that usually means grinding and/or sanding the rust off any metal. You then want a totally dry surface to paint. I usually clean with 70% rubbing alcohol, wait for that to dry then prime and paint.

If you just paint over the rust, it will be back - guaranteed.

if you grind to bare metal you need to use etching paint or a etching pen to coat the surface before painting anything on top. Not sure if this has the chemical in it but I would recommend getting a etching pen/marker its easy just rub it on the surface before you paint or spray anything on it. this is what we use to coat bare metal before doing body work/primering. its a must in the auto collision field

bernstem wrote:If you just paint over the rust, it will be back - guaranteed.

100% guaranteed

FWIW you could check out Eastwood online catalog they have a lot of good sources for rust proofing and other coatings as well as tons of tools

I used POR-15 to paint the entire frame and underneath side of my s-10 body.

They claim it will paint over rust, but I would still remove as much rust as possible.

Like the others have said. Rust can come off metal. So if the paint sticks to rust, and rust can come off metal, well.....

That said, it is pretty durn tough. Definitely a more durable coating than any spray paint I've used.

I haven't used their spray paint version. Used a HVLP gun for mine. It did leave a little to be desired in the sprayability department. It was thick even when used with their special thinner. But I'll be the first to admit that I don't know all the ins and outs of painting, and could result in a very different experience in experienced hands.

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OK, so for small areas, should I buy a little mouse sander or will a wire brush attachment on a drill work?

Do you have a air compressor? If so the best thing is the little flap disc sand paper on a little angle grinder. They are easy to control and gets the job done quick. If not I personally would use some sort of sander. Wire brush won't get it off at evenly.

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JC Paint Workz wrote:Do you have a air compressor? If so the best thing is the little flap disc sand paper on a little angle grinder.

Great! I'll look into that... Thanks!

Something like this is what i was trying to describe

Click here for more information

Click here for more information

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I have been using Fluid Film for a few years now and can say this stuff is amazing!!! WD-40 can't hold a candle to it!!!! It sprays on thick but lasts forever. You can buy it at any JD dealership for about $10 for an aerosol can. It says it stops rust on contact which isn't a big problem down here in the south. I use it to lube the chain on my Tru Cut mower! And anything else that needs lubing!!!

Mightyquinn, that's good to know! I'm going to spray around my snowblower and under the car this winter. I've heard some cities spray their snowplows and other equipment. Turf magazine had a little blub saying LCO's were using it on their equipment.

JC Paint Workz wrote:Something like this is what i was trying to describe

Click here for more information

Click here for more information

So not like this?



I have an electric angle grinder and also a pneumatic die grinder. I'm going to see what's available at Harbor Freight this week. Thanks!

Those and the electric angle grinder would be fine if you weren't needing in tight spots.

The tool JC posted would get into tighter spots better.

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yea those are for electric 4" angle grinders if your not careful those will take off ALOT of material quick lol. i could imagine on a thin snow blower auger housing those would easily go through the metal in few minutes depending on how thick.. if you go lightly and quick without sitting in 1 location to long it wouldnt hurt but watch it closely.

The links i posted are alot more user friendly as its less RPM and you can easily control the PSI through a regulator I even use them on custom fiberglass body work while molding stuff. They work in tight places. You can get the grinder for about 15 bucks at Harbor Freight and the disk come in a varity set with adapters for 10-15. I always buy HF tools for around the house since I dont use them all that often

I remember a short video in Trucks! and I had to find it.

Rust removal

Not sure if how big your parts are, but after it's done, I would spray the part with some rustoleum to make sure it doesn't come back.

Bill

Fluid film is good stuff. At the end of each season I spray my equipment with silicone spray and have ZERO rust. I also keep all my stuff in a dry shed or garage.

POR-15 is good stuff but has some big drawbacks. It's UV sensitive so it must be topcoated. Also, once you open the can is is essentially use it right then or it's junk. Get a drop of sweat in it while using it, junk. Close the lid? You need to have plastic so you don't have metal to metal with lid or you're not getting it open again. As long as you understand some of the issues with it and follow the directions, it's a superb product.

I strongly recommend the products from Eastwood.com For rust, they make a great Rust Encapsulator that is fantastic. As with any painting project, it's all about the prep.
Here's how to use the Eastwood products.

1. Wire wheel or sand most of the rust off. Unless you take away material, you're going to have pits in the metal (which require sandblasting, etc but 99.9% of people don't have access too once).
2. Wipe down surface with the Fast Etch. This treats the iron oxide in the pitted surfaces and leaves a coating.
3. Clean surface with their "Pre" solution
4. Spray/brush with Rust Encapsulator
5. Spray/brush with Extreme Chassis Coat Primer
6. Spray/brush with Extreme Chassis Coat Paint

They have other top coats besides the Chassis Cost and they also make a bullet-proof epoxy paint (called 2K). The Eastwood stuff is the cats meow IMO. POR-15 is somewhat of a PITA when working with it and why I use Eastwood. The Eastwood products above are also available in aerosol cans as well (the 2 part "2K" epoxy is not).